dogs

53 posts

Don’t Poison Your Pets

Some Crassers have been concerned lately about what’s bad for their pets to eat, and just how much is really horrible. The bad news: there are a lot of things that will poison your cat or dog. The good news: it usually takes a lot to do harm. So here’s a helpful guide to what’s going to cause you to clean up gallons of vomit and what you can do in an emergency.

You can find a comprehensive list here, but we’ll focus on the most common things, and some of the less common things that can cause big problems. Continue reading

QOTD: Cats or Dogs?

Well, cats, obviously.

I was always a cat girl. My first cat was a Siamese named Tiger, when I was two years old.

We went to the ASPCA and found another little girl when I was in first grade. I put my finger on the cage, and she wrapped her paw around my little finger. My father was not happy I called her Muffin.  I thought it was a very classy name. Muffin was followed by Crystal:  another name of pure class. Continue reading

Puppy Mills to Pet Stores: Part 2

In part 1 of this series, we talked about the conditions in a puppy mill. From a puppy mill, the young dogs go to pet stores. The conditions don’t get any better once they leave the mill. In Part 2, we’ll talk about what these dogs continue to suffer through, and why, under no circumstances, should you ever buy a dog from a pet store.

Pet store conditions

Ultimately, a pet store environment is really no better than that of the puppy mill. These dogs are first transported to the store in just about anything short of a rickshaw. No thought is given to temperature or sanitation en route to the store, and many go long, long ways. Some puppies don’t make the trip and die of dehydration, disease or hypo/hyperthermia along the way.

Assuming they get there alive, they’re then put in cages not unlike the ones they came from: wire on the bottom to make cleaning easier (and getting comfortable harder), too many dogs in one cage, and a lack of bedding or toys that provide crucial solace and enrichment (at a developmental stage that desperately needs these things). Pet store employees may mean well, but they’re often untrained in basic animal care and certainly lack any sort of knowledge of veterinary medicine.

They may not even have the opportunity to play or cuddle with the dogs unless they are taking them out for a prospective buyer. In fact, that’s not part of their job. They are retail workers, not animal professionals. So the care these dogs get is often palliative at best, and enough to keep them alive and appearing healthy, not enough to help them grow into physically and socially healthy animals.

Pet store diseases

Without exception (seriously, it’s very close to 100%, in my anecdotal experience), these dogs are sick. It starts at the puppy mill, but the stress and added pathogen exposure of a pet store, stocked with many other animals of other species and housed with dogs from other litters, combined with poor sanitation practices on the part of the workers means these dogs are sick at the store and will be sick when you take them home.

They don’t always look sick, though, especially to the untrained eye. Pet store animals are often dosed regularly with antibiotics or other medications that mask the symptoms of serious problems. A dog with diarrhea? You’ll rarely see one at the store, but when you take little Chanel home, you’ll be cleaning it up hourly. Why? The dogs are dosed with metronidazole, an anti-diarrheal and antibiotic that will typically not “treat” the underlying causes of loose stool in puppies, usually worms or poor nutrition, but sometimes something much more serious.

Vaccinations? Good luck. These dogs may have gotten an initial distemper-combo vaccination (typically a DHLPP), but at that age the vaccinations need to be administered every two weeks, and any shots given before six weeks are completely useless, because the animal has not yet developed the immune function to manufacture the appropriate antibodies. In addition, since they were likely taken from the bitch before they were fully weaned, they do not have the advantage of some of the basic immunities they acquire from her milk.

Again, they may have recieved a dewormer like pyrantel pamoate, but this needs to be administered biweekly as well, doesn’t eradicate all common parasites in puppies, and isn’t as effective without a fecal exam to ensure the dog is worm-free.

Kennel cough,” or bordatella, an upper respiratory infection, is rampant. There is a vaccination for this, but it is rarely given in a pet store and is only marginally effective even in adults with a fully functioning immune system. Many more serious illnesses can be mistaken for kennel cough, as well. Treatment requires at least 7-10 days of antibiotics, and can worsen into pneumonia if neglected.

The most serious of all these problems: Parvovirus. Adult dogs, even unvaccinated ones, typically have a strong enough immune system to avoid this deadly disease. But puppies are very much at risk. Parvo can live outside a host for up to five months, and can only be killed on surfaces with very stringent sanitation and disinfectant protocols. The incubation period for the virus can be up to 14 days, which means that a “healthy” puppy can be in its home for quite a while before showing signs of the disease.

Symptoms are typically lethargy, vomiting and diarrhea (there is a particular smell and appearance to the stool that signifies parvo); if untreated, parvo has an 80% fatality rate. Furthermore, there is no “cure” for it; care is supportive and often requires round-the-clock IV fluids and attention until it has run its course. Unfortunately, many buyers do not realize what is wrong until it’s too late, and the cost of treatment is usually relatively high. Pet store puppies are the highest-risk group of all because of poor standards of care and lack of sanitation in the store.

The “AKC registered” myth

With all the recent attention paid to the puppy mill problem, pet stores have changed their marketing and labeling to mislead a potential buyer into thinking their dog is not from a puppy mill. The most common way they do this is by guaranteeing that the dog is American Kennel Club registered; i.e., from purebred lines. Sadly, the AKC is not in the business of ensuring that their registered dogs are anything but purebred. The AKC makes money from each dog registered with them, and a dog with “papers” does not mean anything. Many people are fooled into thinking the AKC stamp is some kind of “guarantee” or certification; it’s not. The dog may still have many, many problems.

The most important problem with the “purebred” myth: it does not guarantee a lack of congenital defects. Responsible breeders screen both their breeding stock and their offspring for potential problems such as hip dysplasia, luxating patellas, bleeding disorders and eye problems. Some breeds are more prone to these issues than others, and responsible breeders will certify with the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) or CERF (Canine Eye Registry Foundation), in addition to providing proof that a dog is Von Willebrand’s or mitral-valve defect-free in their lineage. Very rarely is this the case with a pet store dog.

In addition, pet stores often carry “white” or other “exotic” animals, like pygmies. These pets are often the product of severe inbreeding or mutated animals. In some cases, the genes that produce them cause a host of medical and temperamental issues, and these dogs are considered inhumane “aberrations” in a gene pool. The best example of this is the albino or “Z factor” Doberman, all of whom are descended from a mother and son that were bred together to create a small line of badly damaged dogs. Buying one of these dogs is endorsing the very worst kind of eugenics.

Other misleading terms

Pet stores will often use the terms “rescue” or “adopt” when talking about their animals. Do not be fooled. Large chains like PetSmart and PetCo will often keep animals from reputable shelters and rescues in their stores, but they are not “for sale” and you will easily be able to find out what shelter they are from. Older dogs billed as “rescues” may be returns or breeding stock that have outlasted their usefulness. Every dog in a pet store is from a “private breeder”; this is just a term. A refrigerator can be a GE or a Sub-Zero, but they’re different, and all puppy mills are technically private breeders in that they are not a “company” making puppies in a factory.

Adopting and buying are not synonymous. If you are asked to pay any more than a couple hundred dollars (and you should easily be able to find out what that “adoption fee” goes toward), you aren’t adopting. If the pet isn’t spayed or neutered (and they can be as early as 6-8 weeks), and you’re not required to pay a deposit or sign a spay/neuter agreement, you’re not adopting.

The end result of getting a pet store dog

Once you get that dog home, you are virtually guaranteed to have housebreaking and training problems. Cash in your 401k for the vet bills. And, from a moral standpoint, the two thousand dollars that dog cost went right into the pocket of a puppy mill breeder to continue the cycle. No matter how good your intentions, do not buy a dog from a pet store. “Rescuing” that one little puppy from hell sadly endorses the practice.

So what now? In Part Three, I’ll discuss what we can do, from a practical and a legislative standpoint, to stop puppy mills from operating. We’ll talk about the USDA and what they do and don’t do to regulate the sale of dogs, as well as how to distinguish a reputable breeder from a puppy mill.

 

What Exactly Is a “Puppy Mill”?

Chances are you’ve heard of “puppy mills.” You’ve probably been told not to get a dog or cat from a pet store. You might even know why you shouldn’t.

The problem: lots of people still don’t. All over the United States, legislation regulating “puppy mills” is being debated, passed, or voted down. Some cities, like San Francisco, don’t even allow puppies to be sold in pet stores. Other states, like Missouri, have gone against the will of the people to ensure that these facilities can carry on as usual. This is part one of a guide to these facilities, the pet stores these dogs go to, the legislation on the table, and what you can do to help these animals have better lives.

It’s important to understand what people typically mean when they use the term “puppy mill.” For the extents and purposes of this article, I’ll define puppy mill as a facility where multiple animals are bred and sold for profit without regard to the comfort, health and temperament of the animals being raised or sold, or the suitability of the home they go to. This is a fairly objective definition, and does not include responsible hobby or show breeders.

Why do puppy mills exist? Supply and demand. Owners of these operations often profit quite a bit. Also, a number of people consider pets an accessory, an impulse buy, an object. These people may not want to go through the process of adopting or rescuing an animal. Also, the demand for purebred or “designer dogs,” and the fact that many people want a puppy, ensures that there are simply some people who will seek out a dog the same way they’d seek out an iPad 2.

What goes on in a puppy mill

The primary problem with puppy mills is the conditions the dogs are kept in. Overcrowding is the norm, and to ensure a higher profit, as many animals as possible are often crammed into extremely small cages. Stacking cages is also the norm, and since the crates typically have only wire mesh as a floor, urine, feces and other bodily fluids often trickle down into other cages. Often, there is poor ventilation and temperature regulation, which can further endanger the health of puppies already exposed to the bacteria and viruses rampant in unclean conditions. Vet care is minimal if there is any; owners frequently take “treatment,” up to and including euthanasia, into their own hands. Water bowls can freeze, disallowing access to any water in cold climates, and food left in cages can rapidly grow bacteria in hotter climates.

A puppy mill cannot exist without grist, and sexually mature females are just that. A bitch will often have her first heat at around six months of age. While best practices dictate that a dog should not be bred until 2 years of age (for the same physical reasons an 11-year-old should not get pregnant), owners disregard this and breed bitches every heat cycle, twice a year, until the dog either dies as a result of pregnancy or can no longer conceive. When she survives, she is often killed or sold to a laboratory for testing.

These dogs are bred even if they give birth to litters that exhibit obvious physical deformities or higher fatality rates. Part of a true “breed standard” is a lack of congenital defects and a sound temperament, in addition to appearance. None of these things matter in a puppy mill. Dogs prone to hip dysplasia, bleeding disorders, and severe aggression are bred over and over, ensuring plenty of their progeny will go out into the world to unsuspecting buyers.

Once the puppies are born, they are often separated from the mother as soon as they can eat solid food. This creates a temperament problem that will often follow them through the rest of their lives. When a dog or cat is taken away from their mother or litter-mates too soon, they often do not learn basic things like bite inhibition and social behavior, and the window for such learning is very small. In many cases, they will not be able to “learn” to behave appropriately in certain situations.

What puppy mill rescues look like

In Missouri, I have worked for a shelter that raided several notorious puppy mills. It’s not a simple process to seize dogs from a mill; these facilities need only be licensed by the USDA to be “legal.” After that, it is difficult to track and prove animal cruelty that would result in the license being taken away, and many facilities have nearly one hundred reprimands on their record from the USDA and remain licensed.

When we receive dogs from a puppy mill, their condition is, across the board, abhorrent. In one rescue, all thirty-plus dogs seized had to be completely shaved. Not only were mats pulling the dogs’ skin and hiding abscesses (including one dog who had a gaping, bleeding hole in his muzzle), it was literally impossible to guess what breed they were. Many of the animals are covered in their own urine and feces.

Some dogs have infected and necrotic limbs that need to be removed. Some are so emaciated that they are days from dying. Some are so full of mange or other parasites that their lives are comprised solely of suffering. Puppies, because their immune systems are young and weak, may have parvo-virus, a highly contagious and deadly disease when not treated immediately and aggressively. Worms of all kinds and kennel cough, an upper respiratory infection, are par for the course.

Many of these dogs are terrified and some are aggressive. They receive little to no human interaction in their cages and have no idea what to expect when a rescue worker reaches into their enclosure. Because, as mentioned above, they’ve lived this way since puppy-hood, it can take months or longer to rehabilitate them socially. Many may never be “normal.”

Many of the older dogs rescued have severe dental disease due to poor nutrition. Poor dental hygiene can lead to the same problems in animals as it does in humans, up to and including heart disease. Some females may have serious reproductive issues, such as mammary tumor, pyometra, or a prolapsed uterus (the first is often cancerous, the last two disgusting, painful and usually deadly).

Some of these dogs, despite being rescued, are so ill, are in so much pain, that rehabilitation is not possible. In all honesty, some animals must be euthanized because they are so sick or deformed that they can never live a normal life according to “humane” standards.

Most of these dogs are the “breeding stock,” and those adorable puppies in the window are already at the pet store. In Part 2 of this series, we’ll talk about what their lives are like.

Training Corner: The Dominance Myth

Welcome again to Training Corner! Pull up a chair for another exciting lesson in dog training (cat people, good luck on that. Your columns will be coming). Today, we’re talking about what is often called “dominant” behavior in dogs.

For our purposes, we’ll be talking about the idea that a dog must consider you the “alpha” or “pack leader” in the house. This is patently untrue, though the theory was well-accepted in dog training circles for many years. We now know, empirically, that it isn’t true, just as times have changed and we now know that putting cocaine in a soft drink isn’t the best idea.

“But, EthologyNerd,” you ask, “how is my horrible dog going to listen to me if he doesn’t respect me? Doesn’t he have to think I will rip out his throat if he angers me, as I am the alpha wolf?” Short answer: No, idiot. Long answer: What you think of as “alpha” behavior has very little to do with getting your dog to do what you want it to do. So we’ll debunk a few common misconceptions.

The “Alpha Rollover”

Myth: This is what wolves do in the wild, and a dog is exhibiting submissive behavior when it rolls over and exposes its belly. So you should force the dog onto its back and maybe grab its throat, and then it will understand that you have the power to make it submit to you.

Fact: Wolves do not typically force other wolves into a submissive position except in very specific situations (e.g. feeding and mating). Plus, wolves and domestic dogs are many, many generations removed and their behaviors are now very different. Submission, in dogs, is a consenting behavior (don’t be a pervert). Forcing a dog into a certain position, be it belly-up, laying down, or doing a sun salutation, doesn’t mean it will elicit a certain behavior. It may just anger an especially unwilling dog.

True story: my former boss, a woman who has been training dogs longer than I’ve been alive, did an “alpha rollover” on her feisty Rottweiler when this was still an accepted practice. This dog nearly bit her hands off. Might be different if you did it with a Shih Tzu, but why would you even?

Leash correction and corporal punishment

Myth: when you are training a dog, if you use a choke chain or prong collar, when the dog does something you don’t want it to do, yank up on the leash to issue a correction, so the dog knows it did something bad and you have the power to hurt it. You can see a similar method using a noose leash on Caesar Milan’s program. This also includes other physical punishment such as hitting a dog on the nose or grabbing its mouth and holding it shut.

Fact: Let me pose a question. Which job would you rather have: 1) one where you are praised when you do well, given raises and bonuses when you do very well, and come to work anticipating a great day and wanting to work hard for your rewards, or: 2) a job where you’re berated every time you do something wrong, screamed at when something doesn’t go right even if you have no idea what happened, and get no raises or praise, ever?

This is not a look you want to aim for.

If you chose 2), you’re a masochist. Dogs are not masochists. Basic learning theory dictates that dogs will work harder for a reward than they will if punished. Also, when you punish a dog, they still have no idea what it is they “should” be doing to get a positive response. They’ll listen to you, sure, but out of fear. And Machiavelli aside, it’s not that powerful a motivator if they don’t know what you do want them to do. In fact, it can elicit a fear response and the dog may learn to react to pain with aggression. Worse, if you do it because your friendly dog wants to lick a child or sniff another dog, it may learn to associate the pain of the correction with children or dogs, and voila! You’ve got a much bigger problem.

Leash correction is still sometimes used in very specific situations. However, a novice trainer can cause much more harm than good because the timing of the correction, the placement of the collar, and the duration of the correction all need to be exact and correct; in all, it’s best to avoid it unless you are working with an experienced trainer that also uses positive reinforcement. In addition: incorrect technique, especially if using a “choke chain,” can have lasting physical effects on your dog, including thyroid and trachea damage.

Making your dog eat after you or making sure your dog goes after you out the door.

Myth: if you give your dog something it finds valuable first, or let it walk ahead of you, you’re reinforcing the idea that the dog “ranks” higher than you.

Fact: This is still controversial, but again, just because wolves do it doesn’t mean it always makes sense in a dog-human relationship. Your dog knows you’re a human, not another dog. So why do they try and squeeze out the door ahead of you? They’re excited. They like to go outside. This is not an indication of dominance, it’s an indication that they want to go out. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t train your dog to wait on command before going outside; it can be very dangerous to have a dog that dashes out any open door and you should still be the first one out the door to avoid problems.

Likewise, the order in which you feed your dog doesn’t matter; I, for example, feed my dogs at a time that’s convenient for me, as do many people. If your dog begs or tries to steal food, again, it’s not because it thinks it’s the “alpha,” it’s because food tastes great and you haven’t properly trained your dog to sit quietly at human mealtimes. Teaching a dog manners is not about dominance; it’s about training a dog to behave in a way that suits your needs and your household.

Dominance and leadership are the same thing.

Myth: Well, really. We’re all pretty smart here. Are they synonyms? If I punch you in the face and take your wallet, one could argue that I exhibited dominance in our relationship. But does that make me a leader? Not in most jurisdictions.

Fact: “Dominance” is a concept that only exists between members of the same species, and even among them, it is rarely enforced by challenge. Leadership is, in this case, a benign concept. Of course you don’t want your dog to think they’re smarter or better than you. If your last name is Palin, then I wish you the best of luck, as you’ll struggle to best your canine. But for the rest of us, it’s very simple.

You need not rule your dog’s life with an iron fist, or be concerned with your “rank.” Leadership is, essentially, making the animal want to work for you. As the animal with the larger forebrain, it’s your job to show them exactly how they can please you. In fact, unless your dog is doing something dangerous or highly destructive, ignoring or redirecting that behavior will result in “extinguishment” over time. Meaning that yelling or throwing something at your dog still reinforces a behavior, especially if they’re seeking attention.

Leadership is positive.

Part of being a responsible dog owner is training your dog. Many of these alleged “dominant” behaviors stem from owners not setting clear rules. In this case, a dog may “try” to get what they want in a number of dog-specific ways, like mounting, barking in your face, or electing to ignore a known command. In that case, working with a reputable trainer is even more important. But setting limits and rewarding good behavior goes much farther than physical discipline or other types of “pack leader” behaviors some trainers espouse. This is bad science. We know better now. You’d no sooner bite your dog to show him you’re the boss than mount your coworker’s leg to assert dominance over him (hopefully).

Have questions? We’re working on a Q&A column to run occasionally. Email your questions to TrainingCornerNerds -at- gmail.

 

Pits are the pits, or not?

Three summers ago, I was mauled by a pit bull. He tried, unsuccessfully, to attack Nanook, our samoyed/chow mix. She came away with just a bruise and wounded pride, while I spent an entire day in the emergency room awaiting my 12 stitches and staring, in awe, at the three inch gaping hole on my thigh. I could actually see the fat in my leg! The dog who did the damage was a pit mix rescued from Katrina. 2 weeks after the incident, he was euthanized. My heart ached for him. You see, I don’t blame him, I blame the owner. His irresponsibility and outright ignorance of the breed caused one more unnecessary death in the approximately 970,000 pit bull euthanizations in America’s shelters in 2008. Both pure bred and mix breed pits account for 58% of all dogs put down in this country each year. By far, most of them end up at the pound because of abuse, neglect, and owners who can no longer care for them, not because of their aggressive nature.

This overwhelming statistic is almost too painful for me to consider. Although most who were in my situation would automatically take a stand against this breed, I’m torn. Torn because we have a pit mix in our home.

Meet Ugo. The love of my life. When people ask me what breed he is, I start to go down the list; boxer, German shorthair pointer, dane, and…. pit bull. And then “the look” rears its ugly head. You know, that look that says “well, he WAS cute, but now…um, gotta go!”. Some people literally back away so quickly, they trip. Others cross the street when they see him, or ask if he bites, from a block away. Truthfully, when I look at him, I can’t see the scary. He is the most gentle, loving, submissive dog I’ve ever met. His best friends are, usually, dogs a tenth his size and twice his age. With all other K9’s, he’s the awkward kid on the playground who REALLY wants to play with others, but just doesn’t know how. His blind, 11 year old “sister” Nanook, loves him like no other which is no small feat considering she is aloof, at best, with everyone else. I often wonder why not everyone is as enamored of Ugo as we are.

Then, I remember what those people see when they look at him. They see aggression, attitude and a thirst for blood. In short, they see a killing machine. They see a breed that began because of a human penchant for fighting. Not only were these dogs bred for fighting each other, but also for bull and bear baiting. Although, the latter has mostly vanished, the former is flourishing. Every year, 250,000 pit bulls are maimed or killed in dog fights (from HSUS) that earn humans millions of dollars, but are a death sentence for those unlucky enough to be on four legs.

According to Adam Goldfarb, director of the pets at risk program for the Humane Society of the United States, “Dogs are products of their environment. Dangerous dogs are not born, they are created.” Therefore, education seems to be the best, maybe the ONLY solution to end dog fighting and bring the pit bull’s reputation back to reality.

According the the ASPCA, rottweilers and pits (pure and mixed breed) account for a “majority” of the dog attacks in this country, but ANY dog is capable of sinking his teeth into your leg. Here are some statistics courtesy of the American Humane Society:

  • An estimated 4.7 million dog bites occur in the U.S. each year.
  • Approximately 92% of fatal dog attacks involved male dogs, 94% of which were not neutered.
  • Approximately 25% of fatal dog attacks involved chained dogs
  • Approximately two-thirds of bites occurred on or near the victim’s property, and most victims knew the dog.
  • At least 25 different breeds of dogs have been involved in the 238 dog-bite-related fatalities in the U.S.
  • Approximately 58% of human deaths involved unrestrained dogs on their owners’ property

It seems, from these statistics, that certain rules are a MUST (for ANY dog owner):

  • Spay/neuter your dog. This will significantly cut down on their aggression and make them less territorial.
  • When using your dog for security, do not use a chain. This makes them more territorial and, therefore, more likely to strike.  Use a retractable, tethered lead that allows them to move about more freely.
  • Just because you are familiar with a dog, does not mean he/she will remember you. Always, re-introduce yourself by letting the dog smell you and remember to approach with your hand below the chin, not from above.
  • Most importantly, ANY dog is capable of biting you. Just because it’s a pocket pet under 20 lbs, doesn’t mean it has no teeth!

 

In no way do I expect one article to change decades of stereotype and skepticism. All I am hoping for is that my words will help shift the “blame” away from the dog and towards a solution. A solution that provides us with the tools and figures to educate each other about the proper way to care for our K9 companions.

Next time you see what you think is a pit bull, stop and ask. The owners will be grateful for the chance to crush the myth and the dog might turn out to be your friend for life….

Here are some great links to further the cause. They make for very interesting reading:
NPR
The lone Chicago “dog officer” GRAPHIC
Pit bull Heroes

Training Corner: Appetite for Destruction

Welcome to EthologyNerd’s Training Corner. Each week I’m going to take a look at the most common behavior problems pet owners deal with and offer some solutions. This week: Destructive behavior.

It’s important to first understand why dogs chew. Basically, it’s in their genes: from an instinctual standpoint, chewing is the canine version of sucking. Wolves, hyenas and other canids do it too. When a human sucks, endorphins are released in the brain; when a dog chews, it gets the same endorphin high.

From an evolutionary standpoint, it started with bones. Bones are filled with marrow and therefore high in nutritional value. Chewing also helps promote healthy teeth and gums. Consequently, canines that were able to procure bones not only got more nutrition, but had stronger teeth, ensuring they were more adept at hunting. Those dogs were also more likely to survive and breed.

The domestic dog has a couple more reasons to chew. Puppies, like babies, explore the world around them with their mouths. As a puppy grows, they, of course, begin to lose their puppy teeth and begin teething. Teething typically occurs between 3 and 10 months of age; if your dog is older than that, there are other factors at play.

Some dogs are specifically bred to put stuff in their mouths. I’m looking at you, retrievers. Dogs like this typically have what’s called a “soft mouth,” meaning that, while they’ll walk around all day with a tennis ball in their mouth, they aren’t as likely to destroy things (although some still will). Those dogs were originally used to retrieve hunted game without mangling the carcass. Terriers, however, are born to seek and destroy. Any terrier breed, be it Jack Russell, pit bull, or Schnauzer, was originally used

IRL, he would have destroyed those ruby slippers.

to catch game and kill them. So they will delight in ripping up any toy they can; it’s pleasurable for them because it mimics the hunt.

So…neato. You have a dog that’s genetically predisposed to eating your Uggs. All well and good, but unless you have some kind of Ugg tree in the backyard, you want to stop it, huh? Well, it’s a good thing I’m here.

Put it away if you don’t want it in your dog’s mouth.

This is the number-one rule. You’re a biped with opposable thumbs, so you can open/close doors and reach high shelves. You may need to get inventive, and it may ruin your living room’s aesthetic to live for a while without those cute throw pillows, but you’ll lose them for good if you leave them lying around.

On that note, supervise your dog when you’re home. If you have to, clip a leash to your belt, or just keep them in the same room with you, door closed. This will prevent them from finding something before you can stop them.

A tired dog is a good dog.

All dogs need mental and physical stimulation. The above mentioned terriers and retrievers are full of energy. If you own a dog that is bouncing around the house and getting into all kinds of trouble, that dog is basically begging for exercise.

Aim for aerobic-level exercise for at least 30 minutes a day. If you own a Chihuahua, less; if you own a Border Collie, much, much more. Dogs also need human interaction. If your dog is alone twelve hours a day, consider a doggy day-care or a dog walker so you don’t release the Kraken when you walk in the door.

Get your dog some things he’s allowed to chew on.

Invest in some good chew toys. Puzzle toys, of which Kongs are the gold standard, are sturdy and also provide mental stimulation if stuffed with good treats like peanut butter or frozen wet food. Make sure that you never leave your dog alone with a toy that can be ripped apart and eaten, and remove any toys the dog has begun to tear up, as it can be a choking hazard or lead to intestinal blockage.

If you find little Jezebel with a knife in her mouth, gnawing blissfully on the handle (true story), don’t chase her around the house, yelling wildly. Your dog thinks this is the greatest game ever and will start to grab stuff just to play tag. Instead, find one of “her” toys and lure her into taking that; once she’s happily chomping away, praise her. This will teach her that, when she chews on the appropriate objects, mommy or daddy loves her. Also, sleep with one eye open.

Don’t expect perfection. Your dog is incapable of reading human minds (probably).

When you come home to a house that looks like meth-heads burglarized it, sigh dramatically, clean it up, and have a glass of wine. You only have a window of about two seconds to reward or redirect a dog’s behavior. So if they chewed up something an hour ago, they have no idea why you’re crying.

Many dogs chew things when they’re alone out of anxiety or boredom. Separation anxiety is a huge issue, and will be addressed in another article. Regarding boredom: if you don’t provide your dog with something to do, he’ll find something to do, and guaranteed it won’t be balancing your checkbook.

Crating with a good puzzle toy when you’re not home is the best way to ensure that your dog doesn’t get into trouble. Crating, when done properly and for appropriate amounts of time, is comforting to dogs as it mimics a den-like atmosphere for them.

Ultimately, channeling destructive behavior into a lovely evening with a Nylabone takes time and patience; if you have a young dog, I promise it gets better.

Please, feel free to share your ugliest destruction stories in the comments. If you show me yours, I’ll show you mine.

 

The Spirit of Animals

“May all beings everywhere plagued with sufferings of body and mind quickly be freed from their pain. May those frightened cease to be afraid, and may those bound be free. May the powerless find power, and may people befriend all life. May those of all species who find themselves lost, the young, the aged, the unprotected, be guarded by beneficent celestials, and may they swiftly attain Buddhahood.”

—Buddhist Prayer for Peace

 

I received an email from a dear friend this week informing me that six weeks ago, she had to have her precious 9-year-old Silky terrier – a joyful little girl named named Mattie – euthanized, due to multiple health problems. Although it had been years since I’d seen Mattie, I wept for half an hour straight. They were tears that hadn’t come that forcefully since I had to have my rescued Schnauzer Lucky euthanized at the age of 2, also due to multiple, unresolvable health problems, last August.

 

When I finally thought I had composed myself enough to call my friend Bobbie, I found that I was reduced to tears again at the sound of her voice. Then she cried, as she recounted the excruciatingly difficult journey of losing her beloved and devoted pet child. Through the tears and commiserating, I came to an insight that has stayed with me: the only reason I can think of that precious animals should have such short lifetimes is so that we may be able to love more of them: to provide uniquely loving homes for the animals who are meant to be our companions. In my case, I have a passion for supporting animal rescue, since so many are unwanted, but no matter where an animal comes from, the important thing is that he or she is adored and cared for throughout whatever time it has on this earth.

 

So I invite each of you who are present or past pet-parents to join with me in a timeless prayer for the spirit of animals, in memory of all beloved animals who are no longer physically present with us. Rest in peace, precious Mattie (12/20/01-1/10/11).

 

“Hear our humble prayer, o God, for our friends the animals who are suffering; for any that are hunted or lost or deserted or frightened or hungry…. We entreat for them all Thy mercy and pity, and for those who deal with them we ask a heart of compassion and gentle hands and kindly words. Make us, ourselves, to be true friends to animals and so to share the blessings of the merciful.”

– Albert Schweitzer


(pic of Mattie courtesy my friend Bobbie’s Facebook page)

Doggie Love!

Earlier today in the comments, I shared a video clip (link below) – Wendy Francisco’s beautiful song “God and Dog.” Since it was so enthusiastically received, I am writing a whole post around it.

First, I’d like to address the word “God” – as there was some debate in a recent post when the word came up. I invite those who do not believe in God to just substitute whatever word works for you. I would hate to have the pure beauty of this song and the point of this post to be lost in semantic disagreement.

Many Crasstalk readers are familiar with my profound passion for dogs – my dogs; dogs I’ve rescued who have moved on to new owners or passed on; every dog I have ever known. I feel a deep affinity for dogs that is sometimes echoed in my relationships with people. (My favorite people, of course, are dog lovers.)

Often, I mourn for the millions of dogs who are euthanized in shelters in America alone each year for want of caring owners. But even more, I celebrate my small victories, in caring for my dogs well, in helping to rescue dogs who are living on the street here in Mexico, in online activism for many animal rights groups.

Dogs aren’t referred to as “man’s best friend” by accident. The bond between dog and owner – I call myself a dog-parent, but admittedly, I am a little weird – can be a profound one for both participants. The relatively short life span of dogs makes the bond even more bittersweet. So cherish your doggies while you can, and adopt a shelter dog if you’re able.

I’d like to mention two organizations that you can help out just by internet clicks:

Freekibble (www.freekibble.com) and The Animal Rescue Site (www.theanimalrescuesite.com) both give food to homeless dogs across the country.

God and Dog

Saturday News: Taxes, gas, and LOLbears

I refuse to give up image macros
Picture is not related
  • A new “DNA spray” is being used in Amsterdam to catch thieves by covering them with a non-washable mist in the event of a hold-up, which is filled with chemical that correspond to a specific time and place. Invisible to the naked eye, it can be seen under a UV light, and can also be used on objects.
  • A new study by the Congressional Budget Office shows federal taxes are for the third year in a row lower than under the Bush administration, and are actually at their lowest level since the Truman administration.
  • Gas prices are at a record high for this time of year.
  • Are you ready for this one, dog lovers? Inmates at a Missouri prison taught a deaf dachshund to respond to sign language, and then gave him to a school for deaf children.

Happy Saturday, crasstalkers.