A number of us ladies (and Dogs) were discussing beauty tricks last evening and venting our frustrations with the problems cosmetics cause us. We had questions: Is the smokey eye a myth? (Answer: Yes). Why are Spanx crotchless and is that ever not funny? (Answers: Let’s not think about that too hard and no). We realized that we all have different strengths and that combined, we could probably construct the perfect beauty look.
Personally, I am useless when it comes to eye makeup and intricate hairstyles? Forget it. The one thing I am really good at is creating a nice, natural-looking base layer.
Step 1: Clean Your Face.
This is self-explanatory. Wash your face with your favorite face wash and pat dry. Do not rub your skin or it will inflame your complexion, encourage redness, flaking and myriads of other unpleasant aggravations.
Step 2: Moisturize.
You should moisturize your face twice a day–once before bed and once right after you wash your face. Choose a light moisturizer that absorbs into your skin quickly. If you have oily, break-out prone skin, put your oil-free moisturizer on. Part of the reason skin gets oily is that harsh face washes and acne treatments strip the skin of its natural oils. Your skin’s sebum production goes into over-drive, which makes your face oily and leads to clogged pores, which in turn, leads to break-outs. Fun, right? Moisturize. I’m serious. If you use eye cream, now is the time to use it.
Women with dry skin or those who prefer sheer coverage may opt for a tinted moisturizer. If this describes you, apply your tinted moisturizer now and skip the next two steps.
Step 3: Primer (Optional).
If you would like to use a primer, now is the time to use it. I do not care for primer, personally, but many women like it and believe that it extends the life of their makeup. If you are prone to break-outs, look for an oil-free formula. Laura Mercier and Urban Decay make popular primers but your local drugstore will have cheaper options, too.
Step 4: Foundation.
It is very, very important that you take the time to find a foundation that a.) matches your skin tone and b.) has the right formula for your skin. I like Bobbi Brown’s Natural Finish Long Lasting Foundation because it is not too heavy and does not clog my pores. Also, she makes colors that match my cadaver-like porcelain complexion. The color should blend into your natural skin color. It should not be darker, lighter, more yellow, more pink, more green, whatever. Test colors out on your jawline and see which swatches blend into your face the most naturally. Buy the one that does. Or steal it. Whatever.
The next thing you will need is a brush. Some people like to use their finger and others use a sponge. Sponges absorb too much makeup and will seriously cut down on the amount of mileage you get out of your foundation. Now, you are probably wondering what’s wrong with using your fingers. If you break out, you should not be putting your germ-y, greasing little mitts all over your face. Stop touching yourself. I mean it. The second reason not to use your fingers is that your hands pick up just as much makeup as they drop off. It is a terribly inefficient way to put makeup on unless you enjoy strange power struggles with yourself. So, grab your purse or pillowcase of cash and head to your nearest Sephora, drugstore, discount cosmetic store or department store and get yourself a brush that looks like this:
Pretty, right? Squirt a pearl-sized amount of foundation onto the back of your hand. Lightly–and I do mean lightly–dip your brush into the foundation pearl. Use a light hand because while you can always add more makeup to build coverage, taking it off without having to start from Step 1 is much more difficult. Now, working from the center of your face, use a circular motion to blend the foundation outward. Straight strokes will leave streaks but a nice rounded motion will leave a more natural finish. When you have reached your desired level of coverage, check in the mirror to see if you have any noticeable streaks, missed spots or a clear demarkation between your makeup face and your neck. Blending is the operative word here.
Step 5: Concealer.
Ideally, concealer should be slightly lighter than your natural skin tone. Only about half a shade, though. Anything too light will give you that reverse raccoon look and we don’t want that. Shop around to find the right shade and texture for your needs. Chances are that your concealer and your foundation will not be made by the same brand and that is perfectly fine. Now, take out your chosen concealer and identify spots that look red or like they need an extra boost of coverage. Dark circles? Well, you shouldn’t have been out until 4 A.M. on a school night, missy but since you look strung-out, I’m here to help. Using your finger, lightly dab concealer under your eyes, blending into the corners and buffing away any harsh edges. But Tchotchke, you’re thinking, you just said not to use our fingers two paragraphs above! I know, I know but I do not particularly care for concealer brushes because I find them imprecise and time consuming. If you would like to use one, go ahead. A sponge could work as well.
Once your under eyes are complete, move your focus down your face. The sides of your nostrils probably need some concealer because we naturally have broken capillaries and some discoloration there. If you have blemishes, carefully dab a little bit of concealer on top of the blemish until it looks fairly well-concealed. I know that the impulse is to keep adding concealer on top of the blemish but trust me, this is a bad idea. The more makeup you add, the more obvious it becomes that you are trying to cover something up. Think of it this way: If you have a spot on your carpet, chances are that only you know it is there or that others see it but do not pay it much mind. If you put a potted plant over it to cover it up, people will walk into your home and think: Why is there a plant sitting in the middle of the room? Use a light hand and blend, blend, blend.
Step 6: Powder (Optional).
If you use powder, now is the time to apply it. Using the same light circular motion you perfected while applying your foundation, swirl on some powder. Do not forget the concealer under your eyes. Again, proceed lightly. I do not use powder, personally because I find it clogs my pores but you are more than free to use powder if you would like to.
Step 7: Bronzer.
Using a bronzer brush or a clean blush brush (a standard powder brush is much too large for this), gently sweep some bronzer in the following areas: along your hairline on your forehead, under your jawline and under your cheek bones. Use a swirling motion similar to the one you employed with your foundation and powder but use tighter circles. You know what I’m going to say here: LIGHTLY. With all of these steps, the key really is moderation. Too much of any of these products and you are going to wind up with “MakeupFace”–that mask-like nightmare that characterizes Kim Kardashian and Christina Aguilera, the queens of MakeupFace. It is never pretty.
Step 8: Blush.
Take the blush of your choosing and apply a little bit to the apples of your cheeks. You can use a stain, a gel, a cream or a powder. If you have difficulty figuring out which part of your cheekbones is the apple, try this trick: Smile in the mirror. See the rounded part of your cheekbones that protrudes ever so slightly? That is the apple. Please do not sweep your blush up to your hairline. This was a popular look in the ’80s and it is awful.
Look in the mirror. Don’t you look gorgeous? Well, you do! Now smile and stand up straight. No one likes a slouch.
