Ms Stabby claims she buys wine by the label. Ms Stabby, you are a marketer’s dream. However, I suspect a fair number of people out there do the same. I have been known to give a wine a shot if the label amuses me as well. Most of the time I regret it (like you Cupcake!), but I have found a few gems over the years. I aim to write a weekly column on wine to share my knowledge gained over the years of excessive drinking. Maybe I’ll throw in some recipes down the road once I educate you Franzia loving goofballs on how to avoid swill.
I’m going to start off this week with one of my favorite red 
varietals: Pinot Noir. The Dean of American Winemakers, Andre Tchelistcheff, once said: “God made Cabernet Sauvignon whereas the devil made Pinot Noir.” That is because the Pinot Noir grape is a damn difficult grape to grow, let alone grow well. It is prone to various rots and mildews and does best in cooler climates with chalky clay soils. For the vine to produce delicious wine, it must be very low yielding; that is why it is hard to find a good cheap Pinot Noir. The Pinot vine requires a lot of hand holding with regards to pruning – it is much like an insecure, high-maintenance girlfriend – it needs lots of attention. The grapes are in tight clusters, very dark and shaped like a pine cone. The wine color should be a very deep garnet color, a hint of brown is acceptable.
So let’s chat a moment about where this finicky bitch grows well. In Europe you can find some damn fine Pinots in France, particularly the Burgundy region. However, I am most partial to the Red Sancerre grown in the Loire valley. If you can ever get your paws on Red Sancerre, back up the truck and load up. It is pricey, but it is a fabulous red wine that you serve slightly chilled and great to drink in summer. You can also find some very respectable and well-priced Pinots in Marlborough New Zealand and Tasmania. Italy also has some Pinots but I think they suck. In the US, Pinot Noir Nirvana is in Oregon, particularly Willamette Valley. Please note it is pronounced thusly: Wi-LAM-it. Please don’t be a tool and pronounce it WIL-a-mette. 2008 was the best year in history for Willamette Pinots. Try to get those if you can. California’s Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Santa Rita Hills (in Santa Barbara) also make some nice Pinot Noirs. If you find a pinot from pretty much anywhere else, ignore it. It probably is awful.
Ok, now you know a bit about the grape and where it grows well. Let’s talk turkey about which ones are fabulous and at what price points. You can always get a great bottle of wine for $50 at your wine shop, but who wants to pop a $50 bottle on a Tuesday? Not me. So below is a smattering of Pinots I like, a tasting note or two on them and what they cost. Finding a Pinot under $15 of quality is a challenge, but it can be done. Note, I’m not putting down the vintage on most as I’m choosing wines that have been fairly consistent year over year. Trying to keep it simple.
$10 and under bunch:
Block Nine Pinot Noir: I just had this at my neighborhood Xmas party. Great wine. Bright berry fruit a bit of cocoa. Good body with a slight oakiness and wonderful full mouthfeel. Ms Stabby, it has a pretty label — but I like simple labels.
Bogle California Pinot Noir: There is some nice Russian River Valley fruit in these Pinot so that helps it out tremendously. This wine is a bit herbaceous (green tasting), strawberry and cherry. Finish is long and silky with some oakiness.
Castle Rock Willamette Pinot Noir (only had 2008): This is really one of the few Willamette’s at this price point and it is 2008! Good every day pinot with cherry and spice, bit of oak and floral notes. Nice velvety finish.
$10-$15 range
Crossings Pinot Noir Marlborough New Zealand (only tried 2008): Macerated black cherry is very up front in both taste and smell. Very chewy tannins and by that I mean heavy – worth opening up for ½ hour + before quaffing or use one of those aerators. Blackberry in the finish.
The Rhone Gang Pinot Noir and Grenache “Le Hold-up No. 08”: I liked this wine for a couple reasons. First of all it is unique – this is a Rhone meets Burgundy battle of the wines where we all win. 70% Pinot Noir 30% Grenache this baby was aged in stainless steel tanks. No oak taste here. Lots of fruit and bright clean finish. And it is a screw top! I love screw tops. They are like miniskirts – easy access.
42 Degrees South (Frogmore Creek) Pinot Noir Tasmania: Completely hand picked grapes in Tasmania give this vino a big red cherry and black current nose and taste. Tannins are integrated (that means it isn’t as heavy tasting – not as much ‘dirt’ taste) and a nice finish.
$15-$25 range
M by Martellotto Pinot Noir Willamette Valley: Full disclosure – I sell this wine so I am a bit biased. However, I really do love this wine. The 2008 vintage is fabulous and I highly recommend you grabbing it if you can get it. Grown sustainably, it is a wine with lots of berry up front, bit of spice, touch of oakiness and a long finish. Tannins are easy on the mouth. This is a wine that you can eat with or without food — an easy drinking wine. Not heavy, but elegant. Only 2250 bottles produced.
A to Z Oregon Pinot Noir: 90 Points from Wine Spectator. This should be readily available all across the country. It needs a bit of air before you drink it or you will miss the raspberry and cherry bomb of flavor up front. Bit of pepper in there too. Lighter bodied, less tannic but a nice finish.
Franck Millet Sancerre Rouge: YES!!!! Sancerre Rouge is delicious. Nice nose of cherries and violets. Big fruit/berry taste, some tannins but not too much. Serve this baby slightly chilled and you will love me for it. (Sorry no label!)
Walnut City Wineworks Pinot Noir Reserve Willamette Valley: Ok, another one I sell, but this is exceptional. If a wine could be the embodiment of elegance this is it. Walnut City Wineworks are sustainably grown wines from a couple of former Dead Heads. They are artisan farmers more than anything else. Big berry and cherry nose and taste up front. Middle and finish are smooth with a bit of tannins, chocolate, spice, lavender and smoke. This is really the standard by which Willamette Pinots should be measured. (There is a non-reserve, but this is so much better)
$25+ (Big range in price here)
Twomey Cellars by Silver Oak Russian River Pinot Noir (I’ve only had the 2007): –90 point wine and it should be because it is pricey. Lots of berry, rose petals, dried cherries, and cinnamon. Velvety finish, full body. Awesome.
Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee Willamette Pinot Noir: Robert Parker rated the 2007 90 points. This is one big ass wine. Bing cherries, pomegranate, cola and berries. French oak and nice tannins round out this wine. Delicious.
2005 Nuits St George Murgers Bertagna – This is a wine you save for when you inherit some wealth, get engaged or get access to a nice expense account. (It runs about $115+ and is hard to find). It is hard to describe how tasty this wine is. It is everything a Burgundy should be. Delicious berry and cherry notes, spicy middle, rich and full despite the tannins being a bit subdued. Oh my God, I love this wine.
In general, the US and New Zealand wines don’t age as well as the Burgundies. I wouldn’t, in general, buy a Pinot Noir earlier than a 2006 vintage that is from the US or New Zealand, whereas I’d happily buy some in the early 2000’s from Burgundy.
What if you cannot find this at your local wine shop? I’m a huge purchaser of wines on the internet. You can get great deals on more expensive wines, even with shipping costs, as tax is eliminated in most states. Here are a few of my favorite internet purveyors:
www.zachys.com (Although it will not be tax free in NY as they are in Scarsdale. Shipping is free though in NYC, Westchester and lower CT)
Any questions about what any of these terms mean, feel free to ask. Next week, I’ll probably do Cabernet but I am open to suggestions.
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